After 5 years at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa seemed to reach back into the company’s archives for his ode to simple elegance. Inspired by Laura Wilson’s book about the Hutterites of Montana, a religious group less assimilated than the Amish of Ohio and Pennsylvania, Costa challenged himself to eliminate any unnecessary design elements, including extra seams, which led to one continuous curving seam on some of the jersey dresses. His Spring 2008 Collection was all monochromatic neutrals, offering a refreshing palette cleanser of whites, grays, tans, and a few subdued but rich shades of aqua, rust, and spring green. Some of the first white ensembles were so austere that they suggested medical recovery more than refined luxury. But the sensuality of the fabrics begin to speak for themselves, especially in the skirts and dresses (mid-calf or full-length), which appeared to ripple whether the models were walking or standing still. Front-row admirers included Kate Bosworth and Julianne Moore, who changed into fresh Calvin Klein outfits after the show to co-host the after-party.
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